Nature has its way of teaching us things. Just as the wise man who said, “Our greatest glory is not in never falling, but in rising every time we fall”. Like the waterfall that falls ever so graciously, we must learn to fall in style and get back on our feet like nothing ever happened. Such was our wisdom when we began our journey on a warm Sunday afternoon.
Getting There
The warm Sunday afternoon was like no other, we set out under the peak summer sunshine with our over-packed rucksacks and hearts full of fire. Our pockets were full but we were low on cash, so we travelled slow, and travelled long. Our destination for the day was a railway station called Castle Rock on the Goa-Karnataka border where we were to begin our trek the next morning.
We started from Anjuna, Goa, and changed vehicles a total of four times to get there, Anjuna – Mapusa – Panjim – Vasco by bus, and Vasco – Castle Rock by train. I do not recommend this route to anyone. Especially to the faint-hearted who are afraid of change.
It was way past sunset when we reached Castle Rock and our initial plan was to walk to the nearby town and look for a place to spend the night. So off we went, hopping and skipping out of the station and into the unknown. There was a full moon that night, and it wasn’t long before a dog howled in the distance. We tried to ignore it and carried on. The crickets tried to make it awkward for us but our friendship was strong. We felt we could conquer the night and find shelter after all. Just then, the lights went out.
Pitch darkness.
Somebody screamed.
It was one of us.
Luckily it started to drizzle, so we quickly ran back to the station, let the blood pump back into our veins and caught our breath. The station was great and we had the waiting room all to ourselves. With an attached bathroom and electricity, what more could we ask for. We slept like babies in cradles with the rainfall as our lullaby. Later that night, I dreamt I was a train.
My buddy, Karan
Uninterested baby
Base Camp
The Next Day
We woke up early the next morning to the sweet sound of loud trains passing by. After the usual morning routine, we headed out but realized we didn’t know which way to go. We asked around and found a middle aged couple running a lovely little café. It was perfect. They served us tea, idlis, dosas and soon we were too full to trek. We started walking at 9 o’ clock and the route we were to take was the railway track to the Dudhsagar Railway Station. That day, the sun shone brightly and the sky was clear. The views were amazing and it smelt like wet earth. We passed abandoned cabins, adventure camps, rope bridges, railway bridges, forests, and more. The most exciting of them all were the tunnels. Every tunnel had its specifications engraved at the entrance. This time, darkness was our friend, it shielded us from the heat. We entered our first tunnel hesitantly with torches, looking for things we didn’t want to find. At the end of it, we felt our pulse racing and our hearts were filled with a sense of accomplishment. Life was never the same again.
On one such occasion, we were in the tunnel when we heard a train honk loudly. We looked at each other and knew immediately what everyone was thinking. We doubled our speed and prayed to the gods. At some point, we realized we weren’t going to make it out in time. This was obviously something we weren’t very thrilled about. I looked around for a depression in the wall and backed up against it. As the train got louder and louder, my life began to flash before my eyes. I remembered the good times and the bad, the high times and the low, the fast times and the slow and suddenly realized it was the train flashing before my eyes and not my life. We were alive! There really was a light at the end of the tunnel!
As we walked along, the tracks and tunnels started to get monotonous, we knew it would be worth it and so we kept on going forward, chilling on the railway track, picking up stones. As a slow goods train passed by, we realized we were tired, but brave. Two of us jumped onto the side of the train and hung onto the attached ladders. Though it moved with the speed of a cyclist going uphill, it was pretty thrilling. A few minutes later, a man from the back of the train asked us get off and sit with him, so we did. We walked to the back, hopped on, and thanked our stars.
He dropped us to the Dudhsagar Railway Station, from where the falls weren’t very far. It took us about forty minutes to get there. The view of the falls on reaching there was like something straight out of a dream. It was like dood falling off a cliff.
As tired as we were from the long strenuous train ride, it was at that moment when we realized the meaning of the song Every Teardrop is a Waterfall, where Chris Martin sang,
“It was a wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-terfall,
A wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-terfall”
It was beautiful, I thought about the waterfall and realized something. When water falls, sometimes we call it rain, sometimes a waterfall and sometimes taking a leak. And though we witnessed all three that day, I needed only one, to take a leak.
We then descended toward the lower part of the waterfall, to where the tourists sat, joyful and naked. The freezing cold water made us feel alive again. One of us lost his balance and one his spectacles. Seeing the sun was on its way down, we packed our bags and said goodbye.
Tunnel
What a fall
Getting Back
The trek back was way harder since we took another route, a longer one without any trains to jump into. It was well beyond sunset so we kept on walking, without breaks, tired and weary, following the north-star, with the moonlight keeping us on track. My backpack pierced through my shoulder blades with each step I took. Right when we were on the verge of tipping over, someone pointed ahead. We lifted our heads and looked up. What we saw was magical. Thousands of fireflies spread out, flickering about, all around us, their glowing buttocks up in the air, blinking like dim fairy lights in a garden and surrounding us with their protective shield of light.
There was no stopping us from that moment on; we reached our exit a few minutes later. It was pitch dark but luckily the town wasn’t very far away. It welcomed us with open arms. The enclosure we’d just exited was The Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary and Mollem National Park.
After sleeping the previous night in the waiting room of the Castle Rock Railway Station, we didn’t mind sleeping at the Kulem Railway Station which was in the vicinity. Our wallets were delighted to hear this and after checking out of the town bar and walking around, we were ready to sleep. It was an uncomfortable night on the cold hard marble. I woke up several times to the insects that bugged me, and the trains that choo’d at me.
We woke up groggy the next morning, brushed our teeth in the open, and got on a bus. Off to another adventure.
The Better Pictures
Anjuna Bus Stop
The cafe near Castle Rock
But how can you be in two places at once!
Curb your enthusiasm